every once in a while, you may be blessed with an enormous amount of something special, fresh and immediate. if that something is tomatoes, this recipe is for you.
i must have channelled the nonna of all nonnas one night last week; la più venerato nonna made a case of super-cheap, ultra-perfect tomatoes appear to me on the ride home from work; and, critically, by some mystical osmosis, imparted to me the recipe for sugo: the ultimate super-intense tomato sauce.
you will need a big saucepan: at least 10-15L capacity, and and about 2kg of ripe tomatoes. some people say that you need to squish the juice out of the tomatoes before cooking them. forget this: nonna has better things for you to do (eg make gnocchi, but that's another story).
cut the tomatoes in half or quarters into the saucepan until the pan is FULL. don't worry about removing the heart/stem thing; nonna says you blend it all together anyway. put the lid on, and place pan over low heat for about 15-20 minutes until the tomatoes have released a bit of juice so they don't stick or burn.
remove the lid and turn the heat up to medium-high, and stir in:
2 tbs each of salt and pepper (you can adjust the seasoning later, but it's important to add this much now)
2 whole heads of garlic
6 tbs dried herb of choice (oregano, basil, whatever)
stir the tomatoes every 20 minutes to stop them from sticking. the sauce will be soupy and runny for a while: you need to cook it down to about a third of the pan's capacity.
after the first hour, add:
3 tbs sugar
3 tbs vinegar
4 tbs olive oil
turn the heat down to medium-low. keep stirring regularly. if your sauce sticks or burns, pour it into another pan and keep cooking on lower heat.
once it has reduced to a third of the pan full, blend with a stab mixer or cool and whiz in a blender.
nonna says serve with everything! bellissimo!
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